Fare’s Fair

The taxis’ and rickshaws’ meters are so out of date that they have a “T-card” (tariff card) that converts the reading. You can ask to see it but the taxi meters work out at about 13 times the metered fare and the rickshaws multiply by 10 and subtract 1. It’s all to the nearest Rupee.

Like taxi meters all over the world, they run for as long as the sign is down – whether the car is moving or not. Unlike other taxis, they’re clockwork and need to be wound. The economics of it is complex, but it seems that drivers prefer to have a moving fare over a waiting fair, so you’ll regularly get appeals for extra because the traffic was bad or he had to wait for you somewhere. Take it as you find it, but it’s 90% rubbish. Similarly, don’t be afraid to give them grief if they’re trying to rip you off or driving like a d**k-head. Or, conversely, tip them if they’re good.

Most taxi’s are rented by the kilometre and spend 24 hours a day on the road. The driver will have it for 12 hours before he has to hand over to the next shift. Normally at about 6pm. Bear this in mind if you’ve taken a guy for the day and he starts getting anxious, or if a driver refuses to take you.

Drivers in brown shirts rent and drivers in a white shirt own their cars. This means that they can be a little more flexible but are also more wealthy and less prone to negotiation.

Most are happy to negotiate a daily rate. You can get as low as Rs600 but may have to pay around Rs1200 especially for a cab with air con. The guys around the hotels will all offer you ‘tours’ of differing standards but find one with decent English. Typically, the more expensive the hotel you’re in, the more extortionate the drivers outside. I believe that they have to pay the hotel in order to hang around outside it, and they will speak better English. If you’re feeling frugal however, walk past them, flag down a cab and you’ll save yourself a fiver.